The Complete Positano Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know

It may be one of the most instagrammed vacation spots in the world, but Positano is a place that is rich in beauty and culture and lives up to every expectation set forth by the influencers clogging your social feeds. Positano is magical from the moment you arrive and is a destination I know I will be planning trips to for the rest of my life. Every corner is photogenic, every cliff is magnificent, and every noodle is perfection. If you are lucky enough to be currently planning your Amalfi getaway, you are also probably overwhelmed with all the choices the bustling destination has to offer. I am here to break down EXACTLY how to plan your trip from which restaurants to hit, transportation and where to stay, the beaches and nightlife, and the MUST SEE spots you need to factor in. Whether you are headed to Italy presto, or are dreaming of your next European escape, keep reading to learn everything there is to know about Positano, from top to bottom.

WHERE TO STAY. . .

Positano is one of the most popular summer destinations in the world, which means that there are thousands of places to stay, however you have to book early and strategically in order to get the best spot.
AirBnb is my, and many others, go-to for traveling in Europe. I have found it to be 10x cheaper than most hotels and have stayed in some AMAZING places that I wouldn’t have otherwise had access to. Positano is home to many gorgeous AirBnBs that can give you the view and feel of staying in a nice hotel, without the Le Sirenuse price tag. The best AirBnB’s book up months in advance, so booking as early as possible is essential to getting the perfect spot.

Positano’s best kept secret, Casa Cosenza, is the place I would absolutely recommend staying, and where I have stayed during all my trips to Positano. It is a small bed and breakfast run by the wonderful Josephine and her family. It is inexpensive, clean, and has arguably some of the best views in Positano. The rooms are basic, but the views from the many available balconies are anything but. On my most recent trip, we stayed in one of their apartments which had 2 bedrooms, a kitchen, and a HUGE terrace with one of the most beautiful views in Positano (see below.) It is the perfect place to stay on a romantic getaway or in one of the apartments with friends. It is located less than 10 minutes from the main beach and just a staircase away from the main road, making it quite literally the perfect homebase for your stay in Positano. A light italian breakfast is available for a fee, but for the price and the view, this bed and breakfast is unbeatable.

Located halfway between Praiano and Positano, Hotel Tramonto D'Oro is a quiet, beautiful, relaxing getaway if you are looking for the Amalfi Coast experience, without the noise and bustle of staying right in town. The views from this hotel are spectacular and it exudes relaxing Italian villa vibes. It is affordable and has a pool, multiple restaurants, beautifully decorated rooms, and a gym, all amenities that can be hard to find in this area. If you are looking for the perfect combination between relaxation and the buzz of Positano, this is the spot.

Another wonderful and small hotel located in the heart of Positano is Villa Flavio Gioia. It is located slightly further down the hill into Positano, but still has spectacular ocean views and access to all the restaurants, shops, and beaches you will want to visit. It is located 5 minutes away from the main beach and dock and has beautifully decorated rooms that are inexpensive in cost and rich in charm. They also have 2 bedroom apartments if you are coming with family or a larger group. You can’t go wrong with staying steps from Church of Santa Maria Assunta, making this another wonderful pick for your Positano stay.

HOW TO GET THERE. . .

Getting to Positano can be one of the trickier parts of planning your Amalfi Coast vacation. If you are looking for the easiest and quickest option, hiring a private car to take you from Naples Airport or Train Station right to Positano is what I would recommend. This will usually run you between 90 and 120 euros, and takes about an hour and a half, but if you are ok with spending the extra crash for simplicity's sake or you are with a large group where splitting the fare would bring it down, it is most definitely worth it. The car companies I have used in the area and had great experiences with are:
Dream Limousine
Mandara Car Services
Guemar Travel
All of them responded quickly, showed up on time, had extremely friendly and responsible drivers, and will pick you up in nice, clean cars. If your vacation priority is relaxing, this should be your move.

If you are looking for a cheaper option and a bit of adventure, you can take the bus or train from the airport or train station to Sorrento, and from there take the SITA bus down to Positano. Keep in mind, these buses run on Italian time, and are not necessarily going to be the most efficient mode of transport, and are cruising alongside some of the most beautiful cliffs in the world, through windy and narrow roads.

If you want to mix things up but still go the public transportation route, you can also take the ferry from Naples to Sorrento and then pick up the SITA bus from there. Getting to Positano can be a bit of a pain, but as soon as you round the corner and see the first bits of the town, all your worries will disappear.
SITA Bus Timetable
Ferry Schedule and Tickets

WHAT TO EAT. . .

~Best Restaurants~

Il Ritrovo $$
After eating at most of Positano’s must-try restaurants, I can confidently say il Ritrovo is my favorite restaurant in Positano. Reservations are recommended and despite it being a bit of a ways away from the town proper, if you make a reservation, the restaurant will send a van to your hotel or the closest landmark to pick you up. If you go during the day, the view of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the towering cliffs beside it are exquisite, and it is a spectacular spot to watch the sunset. Going at night provides just as dazzling of a vibe created by the decor, plants, multitude of candles, and lights that bounce off every corner. Not only is the ambience top notch, but there is not one dish that is not completely amazing. They have the best octopus I have tasted of anywhere in the world, incredible fresh pasta, and a menu that is constantly updated. On top of that, the service and family atmosphere make this the near perfect place to get a meal. They also offer cooking classes during the day taught by their head chef to learn to prepare food the il Ritrovo way.

Da Gabrisa $$
Da Gabrisa is another foolproof spot to dine in Positano. It is a little bit of a walk up the main road to its location, but it is well worth it. They have an impressive wine selection, friendly service, and an incredible view of one side of Positano. The decor is fresh and clean and the pasta and fish are perfect from start to finish. This eatery is the ideal place to enjoy the Neapolitan take on seafood.

Da Vincenzo $$
Da Vincenzo is a known favorite of many Positano travelers, and for good reason. This family run establishment has impeccable service with food to match. Da Vincenzo is the kind of restaurant that makes you feel like you are at a family reunion. It is located right off of the main road in Positano which makes it easy to get to and well worth the climb if you are staying above or below. This place is wonderful if you are looking for an old Italian feel with classic dishes.

Next2 $$$
Next2 is another must-dine spot in Positano. A Michelin Guide restaurant with a beautiful open terrace, amazing service, and a well-thought-out menu. The food is delicious from start to finish and the atmosphere and decor on the terrace make it feel like you are on vacation. They have an extensive wine list and the ambience is the perfect mix of informal and fun. This place brings modern fare to old style Italian cooking.

Ristorante Max $$$
Ristorante Max is very different than the previous options, but just as delicious and intriguing. It is part art gallery, part restaurant which makes it eclectic and stand out from the other aesthetics spattered throughout Positano. It has more of a traditional Italian feel, with access to both fresh fish (that you get to pick from a large plate depending on the catch from the day) and classic dishes that do not disappoint. They also have cooking classes should you want to elevate your pasta and seafood preparation skills.

~How To Do Breakfast~

Casa E Bottega $$
If you have seen instagram pictures from Positano, it’s likely that you have seen people getting breakfast at Casa E Bottega. It is definitely my favorite place to start the day in Positano. The decor, the freshness of the food, and the service are all unbeatable. The eggs are some of the best I have had in Italy and their smoothies, coffee, and juices are all incredibly fresh and delicious. It can often be hard to find breakfast in Italy that isn’t an espresso and a croissant but this is definitely the place I would recommend if looking for a little something more in Positano. They also have a shop where they sell ceramics and other household items which fit in to their perfect and clean aesthetic. While the prices do not match that of an American diner, they are relatively affordable compared to the rest of the dining experiences in Positano.

Le Sirenuse Breakfast Buffet $$$
The most famous hotel in Positano also hosts one of the most famous breakfast buffets in the world every morning. It is free for guests, but if you are not dropping serious $$$ to stay at Le Sirenuse you can drop serious $$$ to enjoy the buffet on any morning you like.

Market - Latteria $
If you are staying in an airbnb or a hotel room with a kitchen, the Latteria Market, located on the main road across from Hotel Poseidon, is a great place to get pastries, eggs, fruit, and other essentials to make your own breakfast and avoid the crowded and expensive breakfast scene. They open early and on most mornings and have been the perfect place to pick up breakfast essentials when I have stayed in Positano.

BEACHES. . . ?

Beaches in Positano are not going to be like the perfect white sand beaches of the Caribbean, however they are just as beautiful, relaxing, and are amongst my favorite places to catch some sun in the world. They have black volcanic sand and rocks with electric blue water leading to caves and cliffs for jumping. When in Positano there are a few options for what to do to get your beach fix.

{Black Volcano Sand and the Tyrrhenian Sea}

Spaggia Positano
The beach at the foot of the town center of Positano is Spaggia Positano and is open to the public. There is a section where you can buy a lounge chair (usually 15 to 20 euro depending on time in season) to spend the day if you don’t want to lay on the sand or rocks and an open public area where you can bring your own towel and hang out for the day. During peak summer months, this beach can get extremely crowded very early, so I would recommend buying a lounge chair or going down early to grab your spot. It is also close to the port where hundreds of boats pick up and drop off passengers everyday during the summer months, which can make it a bit hectic, but if you don’t mind, this is an easy and affordable option for Positano beach-goers.

Fornillo Beach
On the other side of the first cliff, there is the lesser photographed, but very much still Positano, part of town. At the bottom of this is Fornillo Beach. You can access Fornillo via the main road and taking the stairs down the other side or there is a cliff side path from the port of Positano that will take you directly here. Fornillo is usually less crowded and what I prefer if I were going to go to the two beaches. They also have lounge chairs for purchase, but the water tends to be less busy with fewer boats and less tourists camping out all day. It is easy to access from the main town and the pathway that connects the two beaches is beautiful! The cove is the perfect place to swim and this is a wonderful option if you aren’t looking for crowds but don’t want to pay to lay.

~ Beach Clubs ~

If you are willing to take a boat and shell out a little extra cash, the many beach clubs dotting the Amalfi Coast are what I think of as the best option for the perfect beach day.

Da Adolfo
The most famous Positano beach club that you have probably seen all over Instagram is Da Adolfo. Because of its popularity, you have to get a reservation, something you should get at least a month if not more in advance. If you don’t get a reservation in advance, during the busy months it is pretty much impossible to get in touch with them, as they pull their phone off the hook, but if you manage to get through this is a great place to spend your day. With a reservation they will pick you up on their boat (marked with Da Adolfo) from the main port and take you to the beach where you will have a reserved lounge chair (for a 10 - 20 euro cost) and can stay as long as you like. There is a bar and a delicious restaurant where you can eat lunch. The ability to sit with a drink on your reserved lounger is unbeatable during the crowded summer months on the Amalfi Coast, which makes this a big recommend if you are looking for a relaxing day.

D’Arienzo
My favorite of the Positano beach clubs is D’Arienzo. It does not have the same reputation as Da Adolfo, but in my opinion it is much better. You also have to get a reservation here, however you can make them over email and they are much more responsive compared to Da Adolfo. They will also pick you up from Positano port (as with all the beach clubs in the area) and take you on the 5 minute boat ride to their beach. They will reserve loungers for you (at a cost) and will take you right to your seat upon arrival. They have a restaurant, bar, and bathroom for you to eat lunch and sip on delicious cocktails at your seat. The service here is incredible and in my opinion the beach location is prettier than Da Adolfo. If you don’t wish to pay for a seat, there is a public area of this beach which you access by hiking. I think the cost of a lounger is well worth it for a foolproof beach day.

Treville Beach Club
My final choice for a Positano Beach Club is Treville Beach Club. This club is perhaps a little more glamorous than others with the Villa Treville offering spectacular places to sip a cocktail and take a picture. The beach is clean and beautiful and the white umbrellas dotting across the lounge chairs make it picturesque and relaxing. They also have a delicious restaurant to enjoy lunch and bar to provide drinks while you tan.
You can’t go wrong with any of these beach clubs and although it may be a bit pricier, for the service and amenities, I think it is absolutely worth it.

BOATING ANYONE. . . ?

The number one, hands down, without question, thing that I recommend doing on your trip to the Amalfi Coast, is taking a boat tour of the coast line. If you don’t have the euros to drop on hiring a private boat, there are also small group tours for a more affordable price tag.

On my recent trip, my friends and I decided to hire a private boat, and if you have the means, this is something that is WELL WORTH the money. This was one of the best days EVER and if you are with a group, or even on a romantic getaway, I guarantee it will be unforgettable. The normal agenda includes you being picked up at the main dock of Positano, and taken along the coast up to Capri where you will be shown the famous grottos and arches and can stop for lunch or a walk through the town of Capri, depending on the length of your trip. There is nothing better than relaxing on a boat with a glass of wine and your favorite music playing as you swim and snorkel and eat your body weight in Pasta. We used Exclusive Cruises which I absolutely recommend, they made pickup and coordination super easy and were responsive and we loved our captain. Other boat companies I recommend for a private hire are : Lucibello and BlueStar Boat tours.

If you are looking for the experience without the price tag, small group boat tours are just as wonderful with similar amenities and itineraries, just with other passengers onboard. These three companies come highly recommended and offer everything you could want in a boating day:

BlueStar Boats
Tempio Travel
Grassi Junior

Another mode of transport on the Amalfi Coast that is quite popular are the ferries that frequent the Tyrrhenian Sea. There are numerous ferries everyday from the main dock in Positano that will take you to Capri if you are doing a two stop stay, or just want to spend the day exploring the island, and other locations further up the coast such as Amalfi and Sorrento. These are a relatively cheap way (compared to car hire and boat taxi prices) to get around the area and make the most of your trip. The main ferry companies operating out of Positano are:
NLG
Alilauro
Positano Jet

{La Fontelina Beach Club and Restaurant on Capri}

NIGHT LIFE. . . ?

While Positano is not known for its wild nightlife or party scene, if you are looking to go out after you fill yourself to the brim with pasta, there are a few options. The most popular bar/club in Positano is Music on the Rocks. It is located in a seaside cave and hosts a number of VIPs every season, while playing good music and serving overpriced drinks. It can get a bit crowded during the weekends of peak season, but overall if you are looking for a fun club to experience on your vacation, this is it.

If you are looking for something a bit more mellow and fancy, the Champagne Bar at Le Sirenuse is a great option. It is NOT cheap (but no bar in Positano is), but their drinks and champagne selection are amazing and the view is UNBEATABLE. It has a great ambience and beautiful decor and is the perfect place to start your evening or end with a nightcap.

Franco’s Bar is another spot (also a part of Le Sirenuse) with expensive, but delicious drinks, flashy ambience, beautiful views and decor, and a fancy crowd. It has a gorgeous view of Positano and the ocean and has a buzzy atmosphere at night that is the perfect medium between club and dinner and a little more relaxed than the Champagne Bar.

If you are willing to travel a little ways to Praiano, there is the Africana Famous Club, another club built into the cliff with fun music, dancing, and an interesting scene on a weekend in the summer. You would most likely have to take a taxi here, but if you are looking for something different or to get out of Positano, this is a great option.

IS LE SIRENUSE WORTH IT. . . ?

Le Sirenuse is perhaps one of the most famous hotels in the world, but along with that comes an enormous price tag that extends far beyond their nightly rate. Their Michelin star restaurant, breakfast buffet, champagne bar, poolside restaurant, and other amenities are all quite expensive and are most often, not worth spilling out the extra cash. If you are looking to eat at one of the world’s most beautiful restaurants and are willing to spend big (sometimes up to 300 euro pp), La Sponda may be worth it to you. However, if you aren’t willing to drop your life’s savings for one meal, I would suggest coming to the hotel just to get a drink at either Franco’s or the Champagne Bar so that you can experience the aesthetic, decor, and view from Le Sirenuse without hemorrhaging money. If you have time, this is truly one of the most beautiful hotels I have ever seen and it is definitely worth walking around in if only to admire or take a photo.

WHAT ELSE SHOULD YOU DO. . . ?

Besides going to the beach and eating and drinking your bodyweight in pasta and wine, there are some other fun activities that you can partake in that will help make your vacation memorable.

If you like hiking and fancy seeing some of the most astounding views in the world, I would highly recommend trekking through the Path of the Gods. This Hike is along the tops of the seaside cliffs and gives you a bird’s eye view of what is below. You can get a tour guide if you are an inexperienced hiker, or just want someone to show you around the area, or forge your own path with a map.

Positano also has oodles of wonderful stores filled to the brim with souvenirs for everyone in your life, homemade pottery reminiscent of the mediterranean colors and flavors of the town, and beautiful handmade clothing perfect for any vacation occasion.
Speckled amongst the tony little shops are art galleries that anyone could spend hours getting lost in. Some of my favorites are the Franco Senesi Fine Art space, and the Miniaci Art Gallery. These places are quite pricey if you are looking to update your personal collection, but wonderful for wandering and admiring or taking a break from the Amalfi heat.

As I explained earlier, the Amalfi Coast has an extensive ferry system that runs across various towns through the coast and if you are looking for an
adventure outside of Capri and Positano, checking out Amalfi or Ravello might be just what you are looking for. Equally as beautiful but with different feels, both towns are wonderful to take a day trip to via ferry or bus and provide incredible views, food, and sights that rival Positano.
No matter what you do, where you stay, and what you eat, Positano will enchant you and keep you coming back for more.